Armani gives graceful close to Milan Fashion Week

A model wears a creation as part of the Tomo Koizumi women’s Fall-Winter 2023-24 collection presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Feb. 26, 2023. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MILAN (AP) — It was nipples out on the Milan Fashion Week runway this season, one of the clear trends emerging from a week of previews of mostly womenswear collections for next fall and winter.

Wherever there is a trend, there is always the counter-current, and holding out for what he described as “the dignity of women” was Giorgio Armani. Where sheer fabrics were employed in his collection, it was with modesty.

Armani’s show closed out fashion week on Sunday. Here are highlights from the last day of live runway shows:


With swirls of colored taffeta and satin gathered into crushed roses, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi put a smiley face on a rainy Sunday.

The exuberant looks were spasms of color fashioned into ruffles on a minidress constructed from stripes of knitwear, elaborate skirts and dresses with southern belle silhouettes. These are occasion pieces that would be standouts on any red carpet or party stage; imagine the lucky girl wearing one to prom.

The runway show was in collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana, which supplied textiles as well as handbags and shoes, Koizumi said. He turned a print from one of the Italian house’s recent collections into a series of 3-D floral creations.

“I took inspiration from Dolce & Gabbana, and I also got powerful support, which allowed me to push myself even harder,’’ Koizumi said.

Koizumi also put out there his dream: “To be hired by as creative director of a major fashion house.”


Giorgio Armani once again gave the fashion world a glimpse of idealized life inside Milan’s stately palazzi, populated by women for whom dressing in comfort and style are not a contradiction.

Satiny loungewear in soothing earthy tones skimmed the form and were grounded in more structured pieces, such as leather motorcycle jackets or contrasting black vests. The looks were elegantly layered, with long dresses over a translucent ribbed trouser suggesting lingerie.

Where sheer fabrics were employed, it was with modesty, for example, over a dark tight, and with a bandeau top of velvet.

Beaded fringe, velvet bows and a flower motif underlined the femininity in the collection. And before the Armani woman walks out into the street, one last touch of face powder …

Armani said the collection is about “the dignity of women, dressed with a lot of care and attention, and who take pleasure in dressing.”

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